Once a niche, local foods become big biz

FARMERS markets in Australia have been gaining in popularity for a while.

NOW, in the US the once niche business of locally grown foods aren’t just for farmers markets.

A growing network of companies and organisations is delivering food directly from local farms to major institutions like Thomas Jefferson University Hospital in downtown Philadelphia, eliminating scores of middlemen from farm to fork. Along the way, they’re increasing profits and recognition for smaller farms and bringing consumers healthier, fresher foods. Over the past five years, with more than $US25 million ($A27.05 million) in federal aid, these so-called food hubs have helped transform locally grown foods into a bigger business, supplying hospitals, schools, restaurant chains and grocery stores as consumer demand grows.
Major institutions like Jefferson have long relied on whatever giant food service companies provide, often processed foods that are delivered efficiently and are easy to heat and serve. But with a steady supply of locally grown food from the Common Market food hub, Jefferson now serves vegetables like bok choy and asparagus, creamy yoghurts from Amish country and omelettes with locally sourced cage-free eggs and spinach. The model is simple: Common Market, a nonprofit organisation, picks up food from 75 regional farmers and small food companies and quickly turns it around in its Philadelphia warehouse. The food – everything from vegetables to turkey to tofu – is then sent to 220 city customers along with detailed information about where it was grown or produced. There are about 300 other similar food hubs around the country. Shelley Chamberlain of Jefferson’s dining services says the hospital hopes to eventually source 10 per cent of its food from Common Market. The items can be a bit more expensive and take more labour and training to cook but, Chamberlain says, it’s worth it to serve healthier foods. “We can’t go out to farms and say: ‘I’d like to buy your cucumbers’, ‘I’d like to buy your bok choy’, ‘I’d like to buy your carrots’,” she says. “They provide an infrastructure for us to trust what is coming in the door.” Dawn Buzby of AT Buzby Farm in Woodstown, New Jersey, says it’s a movement toward “farm to institution”. Three times a week, Common Market picks up tomatoes, sweet corn, eggplant, cantaloupes and other produce from her farm and sells the food in Philadelphia, 56km away. She says Common Market is helping her business get urban name recognition. And her farm sets the price of sales, something that isn’t an option at the auction down the road. “People are just becoming so interested in their food and where it comes from,” Buzby says. “I only see it getting better.” It’s a cultural transformation for the agriculture industry – and the Agriculture Department – which has long been focused on the biggest farms and staple crops like corn and soybeans. Most fruits and vegetables are shut out of major subsidy programs as billions of federal dollars flow to large growers. USDA has upped its commitment to building small farms and locally grown food with a program started in 2009 called Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food. Boosting food hubs like Common Market has been one of its priorities. There isn’t good data yet on locally grown food sales, but USDA says it has touched almost 3,000 separate projects.