Whether itâ€™s tiny Union Jacks, tuxedos, stripes, crystal flowers or caviar pearls, nail art has gone mainstream.
No longer relegated to the subculture sidelines or the subject of mockery, nail art has become an everyday indulgence, and not just for flamboyant pop stars like Nicki Minaj and Lady Gaga. Itâ€™s been sported by Britainâ€™s Princess Eugenie, worn to the White House Correspondentsâ€™ Association Dinner and shown up at the Golden Globe Awards.
â€œNail art has been around for years, but in kitschy ways, like a Santa Claus or a Christmas tree on your pinky nail,â€? says Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, creative director of OPI. â€œBut in the last five years, the emphasis on nail design has been huge. … Nails are an accessory.â€?
Nail art is part of a larger trend of individualized self-expression that includes tattooing, body piercing and wild, temporary hair colour â€” all of which is being driven in no small part by our cultural compulsion to share-and-compare on YouTube, blogs and social media.
Welcome to the era of what might be called Kustom Beauty, doing for the individual what the Southern California Kustom Kulture movement did for jazzy hot rods.
â€œNail art has almost crept into the mainstream a couple of times,â€? says Linda Wells, editor in chief of Allure magazine. â€œThe closest call came when hip-hop artists Mary J. Blige and Missy Elliott were doing nail art with crazy designs like dollar bills and designer logos in the late 1990s and early 2000s. But then it disappeared.â€?
Now itâ€™s not only back, itâ€™s booming. As of June 10, consumer spending on nail products and accessories at the mass-market level in the U.S. had increased 23 per cent over the previous year to more than $1 billion, according to Symphony IRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm. And the number of nail salons in the U.S. doubled between 1997 and 2007.
The boom is due in part to nail technology advances. â€œPeople can do this at home,â€? Wells says. â€œIt doesnâ€™t require going to the salon for four hours. Maybe you canâ€™t do Katy Perryâ€™s 3-D flowers at home, but you can do other things. Sally Hanson has stick-ons that look good because they are not stickers, they are made of nail lacquer, and they are flexible.â€?
OPI recently released its first nail decals. Called OPI Pure Lacquer Nail Apps, they come in 14 designs, including rattlesnake, lace and fishnet prints, for $11.95 US per package. Each kit contains 16 pre-cut appliquÃ©s, which require only trimming once they are stuck on the nails.
Gel-colour manicures, which are baked on using UV light and last two to three times longer than a regular manicure, allow for long-lasting decoration, including gradated glitter and stripes, as well as crystal and charm appliquÃ©s.
The fashion world has embraced â€” and stoked â€” the nail art trend. Polish and cosmetics brands partner with fashion designers to create new colours and patterns that are presented during the fashion labelsâ€™ runway shows in global style capitals such as Milan, Italy; Paris; and New York. At New York Fashion Week in February, for instance, MAC cosmetics created custom velvet-flocked nail tips for the Ruffian presentation. For the Kate Spade show, nail pro Deborah Lippmann designed polka-dot nail art. And, front-row regular, blogger and model Alexa Chung wowed the fashion crowd with the Egyptian-style hieroglyphic eyeballs painted on her nails. YouTube how-to videos instantly sprang up teaching people how to get the look.
â€œYears ago, you never used to see nail polish on the runways,â€? Weiss-Fischmann says. â€œAnd now, designers like Marc Jacobs and Jason Wu want nail designs to match certain looks, like painting the nail moon a different colour or stripes, two toning or gradation.â€?
Celebrities have also been influential in popularizing nail art. Peacockish pop singers like Minaj and Lady Gaga seem to be out to see who can sport the most outrageous manicures. For the Born This Way video, Japanese-born, New York-based nail artist Aya Fukuda filed Gagaâ€™s talons to sharp points, polished them blood red and decorated them with Gothic-looking jet black Swarovski crystals and silver hardware.
But the trend isnâ€™t just for teen fangirls. â€œIâ€™m surprised at how women in their 30s and 40s are doing this,â€? Wells says. â€œItâ€™s a playful thing and the beauty of it is that it can be taken off tomorrow. Itâ€™s something you really can do for an evening.â€?
A lot of the recent creative inspiration has come from Japan, where there are numerous nail art magazines and competitions.
â€œItâ€™s 3-D things and bar codes, gold glitter on the tips, nothing is off-limits,â€? says Wells, who has yet to jump on the nail art bandwagon, being a pale pink Essie Mademoiselle woman herself. â€œThe fascination with highly decorative things, with miniaturization of detail â€” that has finally come here.â€?
The Tokyo-based Mars salon recently opened its first U.S. location on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood, offering high-end gel manicures starting at $80, along with custom nail art in a luxury setting. Each customer has a private room, with a television, where two technicians work at one time. Itâ€™s not uncommon for clients to come in with clothing they want their nails to match.
â€œI donâ€™t see it ending right away,â€? says Wells, likening the nail art trend to the now near-decade-long cultural obsession with decorative shoes by the likes of Christian Louboutin.
â€œItâ€™s on an appendage. Itâ€™s fun and experimental in a way people are not willing to do with their hair or facial makeup, which is too close to their identity,â€? Wells says. â€œThe farther you get from the face, the more experimental you are willing to be.â€?